Yea If I could step in on the engineers here....:wink::lol:

1. It's a lot easier to wire in a "no load" flasher unit than to screw around with those stupid resistors. Been there, done that.

2. Wire your power outlet to a 12V relay which will only turn it on when the bike is running/the key is on. Use your license plate light positive as your trigger. I do agree on the fuse though.

Yabbbut, although that will fix the fast-flash issue, it has nothing to do with his problem - the other side lighting dimly when one side is flashing. I started to mention installing one of those after seeing the fast-flash on the video, but figured why confuse things further... :lol:

I agree TOTALLY on using a 'no load' relay (also called 'towing' or 'electronic' - common @ every parts stores is the Tridon EL13) vs. wiring in those damn 'load' resistors (high-wattage, in parallel). They're a crude solution to the fast-flashing caused by swapping to low-current LEDs, more expensive, not avail. at any parts-store, etc. - don't like 'em.- only advantage is you generally don't have to remove the upper fairing to install (big deal).

But again - that's unrelated to the problem. What he most likely needs is just a pair of these http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062295 (or of a resistance around there) wired in-line (series) on each rear signal wire.

PS: Many 'engineers' do truly suck at the practical application of, well... anything practical (worked with/for several of them)! :lol: But the good ones sweat the details to the Nth-degree, consider how technical theory actually works in the real world, and seek what works best (and many of that sort don't have a formal degree). They're generally the ones who figured out & designed/refined the bikes, the LEDs, the flashers, the computer you're reading this on, etc, etc..... :wink:

but ai thought that you all had decided that part of his problem was an abunance of power bleeding past his indoard flasher relay....if you bypass that to a no load flasher....:idk:

That's why you need a technologist, in most cases, not an engineer ;)

No, not the relay, that's before the circuit branches to L/R at the switch - the diode array at the indicator lamp.

Just my best semi-educated guess:
I'm thinking that the voltage (think of volts as electrical 'pressure' & the wiring as plumbing) is 'leaking' a bit past 2 of the 4 diodes (one-way 'valves' ) shown in the 2nd diagram fullthrottle posted. They are there to isolate the R & L branches of the circuit from being bridged by the single dash indicator light (one pair allows current to flow thru the indicator when L is switched on while the other pair blocks current to the R, and vice-versa when R is switched on).
But I think the diodes aren't blocking the voltage completely, so when one side flashes at full 13~14V, the other side also energizes to say 3 or 4V - not enough to make the filament of a regular bulb glow, but enough to dimly light the replacement LEDs. I think the reason the fronts aren't doing it is because they have series resistors built into them which are of a high enough resistance to keep the LED's from reaching their 'threshhold voltage' (the point at which they emit light). So I'm thinking he simply needs to add a resistor (or replace existing ones with higher value) to limit the voltage the LED's are 'seeing' & keep them below that threshhold. But I could be completely wrong & just wasting time trying to remember what little bit of electronics I learned years ago - hey, it beats doing a crossword puzzle though! :lol:

:lol: Agreed - that's what I am (MET / machine design puke). I suck too much at higher math to be a true nerd!

And I was a po' boy who couldn't afford an engineering degree, but had no problem with the math :lol:

Oh I see, well I had hoped that the built in resistance of the after market flasher would take care of this, it is separated left and right as you know. I probably missed something but I didn't think that the leds were "new" but the problem was...which led me to the flasher relay... Anyway, like you said, it's an interesting problem top speculate on. BTW I have my leds wired with a no load flasher and it solved all of my problems. Of course, I have front, back, integrated taillight and under tail leds that flash, so it's a different scenario altogether.:lol: