New chain and sprockets
 

Ok guys, it's time to replace the chain and sprocket's on my fianece's SV.
She uses it mostly for commuting, so I don't necessarily need the Joe cool racer boy stuff, just something that's gonna last. It's still on the factory stuff at 16k, so I'd like to get at least 10k out of the next set.
What's your recomendations?

SBTG recomends Pit Bull sprockets and the D.I.D. ERVIII chain. $200 to my door. I've never heard of the Pit Bull sprockets, so I know nothing about them.

I also found a few others.
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/6515...ki-sv-650.html

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/6515...ki-sv-650.html

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3258...650-99-09.html

Give me your recomendations please!

AL, if you find a deal somewhere out on the interwebz, let me know!!

Thanks

I replaced mine on my SV over the summer using stuff from SV Racing Parts over on SVR.

http://forum.svrider.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62

Not a bad price. Still never heard anything before on the pit bull sprockets...
Anyone?

So far I have 10k on the set I put on over the summer and haven't had to adjust the chain once and everything else looks brand new still. :)

I'm running a PitBull on my GSXR - it was the best option I found for my Marchesini wheel. Quality appears to be very good - nice black hard-anodizing & it was 'true' (teeth concentric with hub - sometimes an issue with cheap sprockets which causes uneven chain slack).

That being said, I'd recommend a steel sprocket over aluminum, even hardened. For street use, the weight difference is negligible, and they simply wear much slower. They'll help the chain last longer too - as the sprocket teeth wear, the chain bushing wear (so-called 'stretch') accelerates dramatically. With aluminum, once the hardened surface goes, it'll wear very quicky & take the chain along with it - and then there's the non-hardened POS's like the Vortex... ugh.

This spring when I replace my chain/sprks again, since there are no steel options for my wheels I think I'm gonna suck it up & buy a titanium Sidewinder sprocket (~$200 - ouch, but lifetime warranty & supposedly last pretty much forever).

Oh - and can't go wrong w/ the top-o-the-line DID. EK's best is great too - a bit higher tensile rating, a bit cheaper generally, prolly a toss-up as to which is 'best'.

I am with Kerry, DO NOT USE ALUMINUM even hardened.

I use a regina chain kit on my Sv cost me 236. the chain is the rivited one.

Keep 'em comin' folks... I am going to be doing my TL sometime soon as well... links to killer deals much appreciated...

Hurr ya go... 5% discount w/ Gixxer.com (and maybe others?) forum membership

https://www.motomummy.com/store/Chai...rear_sprocket/

Okay, I'd replace the rear sprocket with a Supersprox and replace the chain with an EK, Honestly, I'd leave the front... I'm willing to bet that the front will spec out as new considering the bike and it's stated use. Under $200 shipped.

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...0&cat=0&page=2

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...cat=318&page=1

Or you can get the entire kit from them for $239 and it will come with a lifetime defect warranty and a 2 year wear out warranty.


http://www.supersproxusa.com/products.php?cat=1764

Or you can go cheap...less than $120. Chain comes in 4 colors, red, blue, green, or gold. I've dealt with these guys before and they are okay. In fact, here's another 15% just because we're dogs! D2M2008 which makes the whole shooting match about $96 including shipping. The sprockets are steel JTs which are decent IMHO and the chain is Tsubaki I believe which should be okay for an SV driven for commuting.:wink:

http://www.d2moto.com/p-8273-525-o-r...inks-gold.aspx

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7886-jt-525-...1999-2008.aspx

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7057-jt-525-...650-sv650.aspx

D2Moto- Rear $42

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7874-jt-530-...1998-2003.aspx

Front $19

http://www.d2moto.com/p-7056-jt-530-...r-tl1000s.aspx

Chain $45

http://www.d2moto.com/p-8246-530-o-r...inks-gold.aspx

Supersprox-$82

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...cat=319&page=1

I'd still go with D2 for the front JT=Sunstar.:idk: Check the picture...

As far as chain goes any 530 works and there are many, many deals out there but since you don't seem to want it now, it's pointless to go hunting the "best" deal until you are ready to buy.:idk: FWIW I've seen both Did and EK chains for about $100 in the high grade chain.

Awesome work, thanks AL!

You're welcome! Let me know what you think about the chain... I might do the blue... BTW they come in blue, red, green, black and gold.... For $45, I don't really care if they only last 1 season....:idk: They do come with a 1 year warranty.

What? No Supersprox 520 conversion for the Tiller? :gofurslf:

I'm not sure I'm going to skimp on the chain... There are enough stories of guys snapping chains and destroying their engine on TL Planet to make me want to spend a couple extra bucks in this department...

I'm looking at Sidewinder's website and given their highest tensile strength 'smart chain' at 520 is stronger than the 530 chains from DID and EK... and not much more expensive...

Got cheap sources for chain breakers? Gonna need one of those too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html

Or a Dremel/side-grinder works well, but takes a bit of care.


I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

I'd recommend always replacing both sprox - you can't eyeball wear of just a few thousandths, and that's all it takes to wear out the chain much quicker.

Uhuh.... SV650 70 hp and 47 tq... not thinking any chain is getting snapped here.... Especially by some girl riding back and forth to work.:lol: As far as the front sprocket goes, I found a Sunstar/JT (which is stock btw) for $16 and a rear for $40 something....so if they want to replace the front, go for it but they make something called a caliper that will tell you if your sprocket is withing spec or not, I don't think that anyone said to "eye ball it". Quite frankly, that's the same sprocket that they put on the GSXR600/750 some years and I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec. It's not the price of the part but the hassle of getting it off and back on...:wink: Heck, Cutty has nothing better to do right now so have at it.

Different chain....

$100 EK
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...#ht_500wt_1182

$80 RK chain AND a Motion Pro alignment tool!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RK-GB...#ht_500wt_1182

Another EK for $80...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EK-Qu...#ht_1599wt_931

Anybody can go on EBay and find a chain for under $100, I thought that he wanted something CHEAP for this bike.:idk: I could have swore he said he didn't need "racer boy" spec parts...so why blather on about $200 sprockets and $200+ chains? Anyway, there you go, you can buy the STOCK sprockets from D2Moto for about $60 shipped and get a chain and alignment tool for $90 shipped....$150 for a "quality" read name brand chain and the stock steel sprockets with a bonus alignment tool thrown in. Ta Daa!!!:lol:

AFAM ftw, imo....

Their aluminum sprockets are hard-adonized.......I got 18K out of a set.........so there is no reason NOT to use aluminum IMO, especially if you are just commuting, not putting much of a load on it.

Yea I believe you but.... I can't get one to last. Best sprocket I ever owned was a Sidewinder Tri-Metal, alum carrier, stainless rivets and Ti alloy teeth! 35,000 miles on a GSXR1000 when I traded it! Of course they don't make it anymore...:sorry:

Titatium teeth? How much did it cost?

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black! :lol:
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets? :idk:

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?

My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

An ASSLOAD!!!:lol:

http://sidewindersprockets.com/titan...sprockets.html

Ouch. - it better last! :lol:

First, what's my race got to do with it?

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China.:whistle: The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

At any rate, I posted a RK chain with a chain alignment tool for $80... Again, the sprockets are steel which will last as long as the stock ones, no problem.

I'm in the "replace both sprockets" group as well. If I'm doing a chain I figure I might as well do it all. It also gives me the chance to see if stuff is moving that shouldn't in the front.

:lol: You ain't right.

There is - #50 chain is .625" pitch (pin-to-pin distance).
But the wear point is toward the drive-face of the tooth, and not something you can simply measure with calipers. You're right that heavy wear and/or play between the roller & tooth is easy to see - once it's badly worn and pretty obvious. What I'm saying is that even if it looks/feels 'fine', it will still be worn a bit and that wear will accelerate the chain wear due to the elongated pitch between teeth (I believe due to the 'rollers' rotating a bit more as they engage under load rather than seating into the circular tooth 'roots' with minimal rotation).
How much & at what point will it 'use up' $20 worth of chain-life? Dunno, but I think best-practice is just to do it right & swap the damn thing! :shrug:

Actually, what I wrote was:
I agree on not skimping on the chain - though that $45 one is probably just fine for street/commuter-duty & a great deal if it's up-to-snuff. But wearing out a bit quicker is one thing, breaking a link is another. In my mind, it's somewhat of an unknown as to the actual quality (material/heat-treating - and I'm guessing it's made in China), and given the potential consequences of slinging a chain I'll stick with a top-notch established mfg. vs. saving ~$50 over 10~20k miles.

If I were considering buying a $5000 Hyosung vs. say, a $10,000 Suzuki - would the same ASSumptions regarding the possibility of lower quality/materials/lifespan/failure-rate not be valid? How 'bout a HarborFreight socket wrench vs. a Snap-On?

Ah I love a good argument...

Okay, used the example of a HF socket wrench vs a Snap-on correct? I agree that the Snap on should be a better tool BUT is it a $75- $10 quality increase? Did you know that the largest cc bike made could operate on a 4000 lb chain?

I like Esjot sprockets: http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/esjotfront.cfm Made in Germany. And of course, DID chain. DID makes O-ring chain in 630 for my 80HP Suzuki. Talk about overkill. But I did get 55K miles on the OEM.

It may be - I've used el-cheapo HF tools instead of more expensive stuff once and did more damage to what I was working on than the difference in cost between the cheap tool and the more expensive. It's all relative.

Depends on the tool. Hand tools, for the most part I'd avoid HF stuff and get something decent like Craftsman... Bigger items, like jacks and shit like that... HF all the way.

Yea, it's a tough call... I've gotten some really good stuff from HF and I've gotten some craptastic tools from Sears-Robo grips come to mind IMMEDIATELY!!!:lol: I have to admit that the ONLY tools that I've gotten that I haven't had any problems with were Snap-On but $2-300 for a wrench set is a bit much!:panic: The socket wrench example calls to mind the fact that I basically had to return my socket wrench to Sears every month or so when I was using it every day for work. Sure they have a lifetime warranty but guess what? So does Harbor Freight, I've returned tools there several times without any hassle.:idk:

To the "replace both sprockets" crowd I say this, I replace my chain every year or so anyway because I want it to look good.:lol: I'm not trying to set any chain mileage records. I normally change the front every two rears and it has worked fine for me so far. I've NEVER broken a chain nor have I EVER seen a chain break in 30 years of riding. The only chain related problems I've seen were due to improper clip on link installation, which is why I always use the rivet style link. Even with that being said, the clip link failures were ALWAYS due to vise grip installs/mis-aligned chains. If they had used a chain press and aligned the chain, I doubt that there would have been problems.:idk:

Sprockets are friggin cheap anyway, I don't know why anyone wouldn't replace them. Typically $20-25 for the front, $60 for the rear. Plus they are selling them as a kit with the chain more often these days, for under $200.

That is the stock chain off the TLR with about 10k miles on it. Adjusted correctly, lubed all the time. I wasn't hammering it, just cruising at 50 mph. It let go right behind the master link.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/110_1005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/110_1006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/110_1007.jpg

Its pretty mangled because it got caught in the swingarm and cush locking the rear tire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/109_0991.jpg

if I'm crawling under a car or something I want the jack to work... something about the possibility of having a car land on me makes me cautious :lol:

Jackstands.... I don't get under a vehicle without them.

I don't buy those from HF either :lol:

Very valid point on the diminishing rate of return the more you spend - the continued tool analogy is a good one, and maybe that $80 RK is the 'Craftsman' chain. :lol:

I can also see a 2-1 front/rear swap being fine, especially if you're not running the chain to the ragged edge (I don't either, and generally swap it once I start to see any kinking). Not like a little faster (maybe negligible) rate-of-wear is going to be a catastrophe, especially on a small/lightly-ridden street bike. I guess my mindset is just that since there's always SOME wear, it should be changed always (and I've read/heard that point several times, I think mostly from chain/sprocket mfgs - go figure :lol: ).
I did know a guy years ago who went down pretty hard due to a nearly-new snapped chain, though I wasn't with him at the time - supposedly it wasn't at the master-link & the pin just shattered. Never had a problem with one myself - but I do consider it a 'critical component' since a failure could potentially hurt/kill you & probably would give zero warning & why I advised to be a bit paranoid of the least-expensive ones out there.

Lon - I'm not so fond of 'arguing', but I like a good discussion/debate too as long as they stay friendly. Sorry if I sometimes come off as arrogant or know-it-all in expressing my opinions in writing, I don't mean to & I don't think that my opinions/views are the only 'right' ones (hardly!). :)

What's your point? I still have never seen a chain break nor have I had one break on me. You say that it was maintained and stock...so what's that got to do with anything after market? That's most likely a DID chain, I've read that a lot of stock chains are only 6-7000 lbs tensile. Also, maybe the chain was worn out/overstretched? Maybe it was too tight? Maybe you used a pressure washer to clean your bike and water got pushed past the seal? Maybe stock chains are continuous link, made at the chain factory and shipped as a unit which would eliminate the master link... Regardless, I never said that it's impossible for a chain to break, I said that I have never seen it. Also it seems that Suzuki had had problems with chains and TLRs a decade ago if I'm not mistaken...:idk: As someone that has spent a good part of his life doing mechanical service, my BS radar goes off immediately whenever a customer claims to have done "everything right" but yet they still have a premature breakage.

No fair!!!!! But you're an engineer, I LOVE debating with engineers!!!:lol: I'm not suggesting that he doesn't swap it, I only gave that as an option because it can be a fucking pain to get the old one off!!!:lol: Again, I've heard stories of chains breaking for no reason-btw was it a name brand chain? hee,hee, I just find it far fetched. Improbable not impossible imho. My biggest problem has always been the "no warning" aspect of these situations. I've had lots of dealings with chain in industrial applications and without fail they have always shown signs of wear before they've broken. This out of no where scenario is hard for me to swallow. I mean how far did they let the thing stretch? Were there kinks? Was the chain properly adjusted? Aligned? I agree that it's a critical component BUT I also know that it is something that is highly quality controlled for that very reason. At least as much as brake pads or tires. NOBODY wants that lawsuit or reputation!!!:panic: A couple guys go down due to failures and it would be over for almost any chain manufacturer these days.:panic:

Hey you mugs bettered get off topic pronto. You're dangerously close to five pages of motorcycle content

I don't think I've ever had a chain stretch out. Mine start getting stiff when they go bad, which is a sign that the internal grease is gone. Applying external lube won't fix that.

Yeah, I'm going to change everything cause 1. as earlier stated, the front sprocket is cheap, and 2. the bike is in Lake Havasu City right now, so I can't check the front sprocket before I need to get everything changed.

Five pages? You need to get more posts/page! :lol: I'm only on page 2.

Uh yeah.... The chain that is currently on there got tightened to spec, ridden 3 days, tightened to spec cause it was loose, ridden a weekend, tightened again, and then parked... I don't think it should stretch that quick, so pretty sure it's done.

I remember reading that many riders don't lube their chain correctly. They lube the outside roller instead of the inner side plates.

Those that do it at all...

Yea, if there are failures, I still tend to blame the riders.:idk:

If I can stretch a chain with my hands, I usually don't put it on my bike...maybe that's just me though.

bumping a thread because i need help, replacing the chain and sprockets for the first time and dont know which kit to choose so input is needed

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/1216...0rr-03-11.html

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/5173...0rr-03-11.html

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...cket-Kits.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...cket-Kits.aspx

does the Xring make a big difference over the Oring? i was able to get 20k out of the stock set up and want the same kind or better life out of the replacements

X-rings are billed as being able to hold lube better and last longer, but honestly your maintenance & bike storage environment is much more important. Sounds like you're already doing a good job, with 20K on the previous chain.

Most important thing is to store it indoors, keep sand off the chain, and keep the rings lubricated so they don't wear out, allowing the internal grease to escape.

BTW, WD40 is not a lube.....Some people use it to clean, but it doesn't lube worth a dick, and it also contains solvents which if it ever penetrates past the rings, would mix with the internal grease and quicken its demise.

i dont use WD40 haha i use chain wax, which seams to work pretty good. and i do store it in a shed. not much sand in upstate NY

i also need suggestions for the tool chain breaker/rivot tool

I have a motion pro. Got it from my buddy that was selling MATCO tools at the time. I broke it once and got it replaced at no charge, but I wasn't using it properly either :lol:

how did it break? im not sure this is a good suggestion or not haha

I bent the pin on the breaker attachment. I was using the wrong one, and a WAY too long of ratchet to crank on it.
Used correctly, it works very well.

good to know, thanks

I highly recommend that you don't use the harbor freight one, I tried it a while back and it snapped in half before I was able to finish pressing the pins

thanks for the heads up, i wasnt planning on it