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Old 12-27-2008, 06:03 PM   #51
Phenix_Rider
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Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple View Post
The "spraying" oil may be oil left in the cylinder from when it was parked. Look for oil movement in the oil lines too. Once it's running on all three, a few runs thru the gears will clean it out. Then we'll see about the adjustment on the oil pump.

You can move the carbs to different cylinders to see if that's your problem. Also, did you put brand new plugs in? Since you're having a problem with the right cylinder, check the spark plug cap to make sure it's connected to the spark plug wire.

When you remove the cover, be extra nice to the rubber grommet as they are not available from Kawasaki any more and repro ones run $15+

Remove the tach cable, start the engine and see if the tach drive spins. If it does NOT, you have a drive problem with the oil pump. Do not run it as the main bearings will not get oil.
We didn't put new plugs in, but we pulled the plugs and they look fine. We also tried to start it with each plug wire attached to a plug away from the engine and checked for spark. We had spark on all three. The rubber grommet for the tach drive is probably trashed- there's a lot of silicone smeared around it. As much smoke as we were getting, I really don't think there's a problem with the oil pump, but that cover is the next thing we plan to take off. We'll probably try swapping the carbs tomorrow- worth a shot before we tear them all apart again.
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So you think you're ready to ride? So if i ran up to you with a belt sander would you feel safe????
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Old 12-27-2008, 07:24 PM   #52
'73 H1 Triple
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Spark plugs don't "dry out" with unleaded gas like they used to with leaded gas. It's possible they're not sparking under pressure. Maybe swap the left and right plugs if you don't have new plugs.

Not sure if you realize it but there is a three spark plug caddie under the seat. It's a black plastic bottom with a clear top. ( another part not to break )

When you remove the carbs, make sure you pull/twist them straight out. There is a phenolic ( plastic) heat shield insert that can break.

With the rubber grommet, either put the old one back in or find a similar solid plug at your local hardware/automotive store and put a hole in it.
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:02 PM   #53
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2-Strokes LOVE fresh Plugs!
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:10 PM   #54
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How important is fuel pressure to these things? It seems like the rightmost cylinder is being starved- the line only fills up when we pinch off the two left lines. The petcock definitely needs rebuilt or replaced. Right side runs intermittently, and the center cylinder still seems weak. The left is doing all the work, but we can get the other two going stronger by lifting their individual throttle cables. Makes me wonder if something is wrong with the throttle cable- like the amount of adjustment needed to even them up is out of the range at the top of the carb. Or they're not getting enough fuel to keep up. All the air screws are set the same- 1 full turn out. (Book says 1 1/4, so it should be slightly rich) And all the piston slides are set the same on the adjuster beside the throttle cable input.
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:12 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider View Post
How important is fuel pressure to these things? It seems like the rightmost cylinder is being starved- the line only fills up when we pinch off the two left lines. The petcock definitely needs rebuilt or replaced. Right side runs intermittently, and the center cylinder still seems weak. The left is doing all the work, but we can get the other two going stronger by lifting their individual throttle cables. Makes me wonder if something is wrong with the throttle cable- like the amount of adjustment needed to even them up is out of the range at the top of the carb. Or they're not getting enough fuel to keep up. All the air screws are set the same- 1 full turn out. (Book says 1 1/4, so it should be slightly rich) And all the piston slides are set the same on the adjuster beside the throttle cable input.
They are gravity fed so not much "pressure". If your dad not worried about "museum correct", I would replace the vacuum petcock with this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawas...1662QQtcZphoto

It's $58 for the complete unit. The rebuild kit for them is $48 and that does NOT include the vacuum diaphram which costs over $60.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawas...2987QQtcZphoto

I have one of those I'll be using on one of my triples. It has "On, off & reserve".

The carb adjustment may be off due to stretched cable or maybe just being out of whack. Turn in the adjustments on the carb tops and then take out as much slack as possible with the throttle adjustment. Then fine tune to get equal setting with the carb top adjustments.

If you still have the original fuel lines, that may be a problem too.
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:44 PM   #56
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yup, 2 strokes are pickier about the plugs than women are about jewlery.
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:17 AM   #57
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I know it is a hard thing to do, but now that you know it will run, stop trying and start at the top (tank) and work through each system, top to bottom, front to back. There is not a huge amount of things to go through. Make sure everything works the way it is is supposed to and is adjusted correctly. When the Battery, ignition timing, coils, plugs, oil pump, carbs, cables, sync, clutch and chain are all cleaned and adjusted to spec, Kick it. You will likely be rewarded, on about the 2nd or 3rd kick with smoky pleasure of the legal type. Enjoy.

Got Brakes?
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