sold the 1125R

[Trip]

Let me know when your valve adjustment takes less than 10 mins. Adjustment, not just a check.

Drewpy, are you doing the iron butt this weekend with us?

[marko138]

Originally Posted by Trip

Let me know when your valve adjustment takes less than 10 mins. Adjustment, not just a check.

Drewpy, are you doing the iron butt this weekend with us?

There is no adjustment or check. So I'm letting you know that they take less than 10 minutes. Zero minutes actually. Move along.

[Trip]

Originally Posted by marko138

There is no adjustment or check. So I'm letting you know that they take less than 10 minutes. Zero minutes actually. Move along.

Ahh hydraulic. Interesting. You do have the timing and the primary chain in the engine case that requires inspection/adjustment.

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by Trip

Ahh hydraulic. Interesting. You do have the timing and the primary chain in the engine case that requires inspection/adjustment.

I've never touched the timing chain. The primary takes about 10 minutes. Open the inspection port. Turn the bolt under the primary cover until the proper slack is attained. Tighten the locking bolt, replace the cover.

To adjust the clutch, you take all tension out of the cable, open the cover (three screws). Take out the spring, tighten the flathead screw until it seats, then back it off two turns, replace the spring, replace the cover, adjust the cable tension. This one takes about 15 minutes.

Replacing the rear wheel? Fuck alignment. Tighten the axel to 40 something foot lbs, back off two turns, retighten to 48 (52?)lbs and then tighten the axel retaining screw.

It's ridiculously easy to work on.


However, one big misconception about the belt. It doesn't last forever. It just doesn't have a service interval. I wore one out in about 12000 miles. And they're quite expensive...

[Trip]

Originally Posted by Tmall

I've never touched the timing chain. The primary takes about 10 minutes. Open the inspection port. Turn the bolt under the primary cover until the proper slack is attained. Tighten the locking bolt, replace the cover.

To adjust the clutch, you take all tension out of the cable, open the cover (three screws). Take out the spring, tighten the flathead screw until it seats, then back it off two turns, replace the spring, replace the cover, adjust the cable tension. This one takes about 15 minutes.

Replacing the rear wheel? Fuck alignment. Tighten the axel to 40 something foot lbs, back off two turns, retighten to 48 (52?)lbs and then tighten the axel retaining screw.

It's ridiculously easy to work on.


However, one big misconception about the belt. It doesn't last forever. It just doesn't have a service interval. I wore one out in about 12000 miles. And they're quite expensive...

The BMW is equally easy to work on. There is no alignment whatsoever in the rear wheel. Single sided swingarm, just bolt it on. The valves can be adjusted, not just checked, in the same period you do the the primary chain. No chain or belt, it's a shaft. Replacing the spark plugs takes two seconds. Clutch is wet, lifetime. I check the fault codes with my phone in a matter of seconds cause I bought the service module with bluetooth, so I don't even use the dealer for that anymore. Can run all the dealer tests from my garage through a phone.

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by Trip

The BMW is equally easy to work on. There is no alignment whatsoever in the rear wheel. Single sided swingarm, just bolt it on. The valves can be adjusted, not just checked, in the same period you do the the primary chain. No chain or belt, it's a shaft. Replacing the spark plugs takes two seconds. Clutch is wet, lifetime. I check the fault codes with my phone in a matter of seconds cause I bought the service module with bluetooth, so I don't even use the dealer for that anymore. Can run all the dealer tests from my garage through a phone.

ECM spy let's you tune the Buell with a laptop as well as read and reset fault codes. And it's free, you just need a bastardized cable.

Getting the the plugs can be a chore the first couple of times. You have to remove the airbox cover, airbox, and then remove the entire base of the airbox, then it's a matter of extensions and skinned knuckles to get them out. Replacing them is rubber tubes and lots of patience.

However, on the DDFI3 bikes, you can fire off the plugs by turning the key on, holding the throttle open all the way and turning the kill switch to on. This will burn off any condensation or anything else that builds up on them. I went through a few sets of plugs until I found out about that trick..

[OneSickPsycho]

Originally Posted by Tmall

Getting the the plugs can be a chore the first couple of times. You have to remove the airbox cover, airbox, and then remove the entire base of the airbox, then it's a matter of extensions and skinned knuckles to get them out. Replacing them is rubber tubes and lots of patience.
..

You can get to the plugs without taking the thing apart... Hint: there's a reason why the spark plug socket has a hex end...

[defector]

Originally Posted by Trip

I check the fault codes with my phone in a matter of seconds cause I bought the service module with bluetooth, so I don't even use the dealer for that anymore. Can run all the dealer tests from my garage through a phone.

Now that is pretty damn cool. I'm all about eliminating the stealership whenever possible.

[Cutty72]

Originally Posted by Tmall

Replacing the rear wheel? Fuck alignment. Tighten the axel to 40 something foot lbs, back off two turns, retighten to 48 (52?)lbs and then tighten the axel retaining screw.

It's ridiculously easy to work on.


However, one big misconception about the belt. It doesn't last forever. It just doesn't have a service interval. I wore one out in about 12000 miles. And they're quite expensive...

Truth with the rear wheel, but I think the torque specs are a bit higher...

On the 1125's, it's a lifetime warranty belt. I've got 15,700 on mine and still good to go.

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by Cutty72

On the 1125's, it's a lifetime warranty belt. I've got 15,700 on mine and still good to go.

Look into that. I thought the same thing. It's a "life time belt" not a life time warranty.

All it means is that the old belt was supposed to be replaced at XX,XXX miles. The new one just gets replaced when it breaks.

If your dealer is warrantying the belt for you beyond the initial bike warranty, then you have an awesome dealer.

If I'm not mistaken, a belt is between 180-200 dollars.