New chain and sprockets

[Kerry_129]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

so why blather on about $200 sprockets and $200+ chains?

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?

Originally Posted by Cutty72

I don't necessarily need the Joe cool racer boy stuff, just something that's gonna last.

My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Kerry_129

Blather? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
Who said anything about $200 chains & sprockets?

I'm simply expressing my opinion that sticking with a quality name-brand chain, which can be had for <$100 vs. the cheapest one available might be wise - though as I said, it's likely fine for the application. Not suggesting the SV is gonna snap it in two either, simply that there may be a greater chance for material defect/failure with an el-cheapo.

As far as 'I know from experience that the fronts are almost never wore out of spec.'....

I'm curious - what specification/dimension are you referring to, and how exactly are you claiming to be able to measure it with a pair of calipers? The chain itself, easy - sprocket tooth profile, not so much...

I agree that the front will wear much slower than the rear typically, and you can get away with not swapping it - but it WILL shorten the life of the chain to some degree, because there WILL be some tooth wear, even if it isn't obvious. I'm just saying, why skimp $20 & not do it right?



My best advice - get a decent chain (which a bargain-basement one may or may not be), and replace BOTH sprockets. Oh - and it's safest to stick with a rivet-style master link, and align the rear wheel/sprocket w/ a gauge or the string method (don't trust the swingarm marks).

First, what's my race got to do with it?

Second, I do believe that there is a specific distance between the teeth on a sprocket and the width of the sprocket itself. You can also "eyeball" the play of the links in the sprocket itself...um kinda like you can tell if you need a rear sprocket...it is the same thing, you know....

Besides, you are ASSuming that the chain I linked is junk just because A. it's inexpensive and B. it's not a name brand and C. it's made in China... Oh no a chain made in China, no way. I bet none of the name brand chains are made in China. The chain has a 8200 lb tensile strength, plenty for a SV.

At any rate, I posted a RK chain with a chain alignment tool for $80... Again, the sprockets are steel which will last as long as the stock ones, no problem.