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I order oil and filter from www.sportbiketrackgear.com
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I completely forgot to ask, but is 10w 40 the best weight to go with? I notice it is recommended by my service manual, so that would lead me to believe the answer to be yes.
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I'd stay with what's recomended in your OM... unless your going to hit the track alot... then... maybe go to something else... 10 40 will be fine though
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Wurd, that what I figured. Wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious though.
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Just ordered 3 quarts of the 10w 40 Repsol Sinthetic, with a K&N filter out of convenience as well as 2 1/2 gallon containers of the Engine Ice stuff.
Woot woot:rockwoot: |
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Did the first change on the Buell last night. 200 miles, didn't want to wait till 600 with a brand new engine.
There was a LOT of metal filings on that magnet! Glad I dropped the oil. Anyway, that calls for 20-50... that shit is thick.... Still running standard dino oil till it gets all broke in. |
OK, the Cal Tech Mechanical Engineering department did a filter test about a year ago, they said that the PureOne filter is actually the best, after that K&N is slightly better than OEM, and OEM is better than most of the off brands. Unfortunately for you (and me) suzuki threads are propitery and they don't make the PureOne for Suzuki's. I use K&N, and change my oil and filter after every trackday.
As for Oil, I use Mobil 1 in the KTM, and Castrol R4 Superbike in the GSXR. Here's the thing about car oil, you CAN use it in a motorcycle, as long as it is a low-detergent type of oil with no "friction modifiers". They detergents and "friction modifiers" will bind with the clutch plates and cause slippage and eventual wear. The "friction modifier" is usually molybendium. Check the back of the jug and see what additives are in the oil. If you want to use car oil I recommend Rotella T Synthetic, my father has about 30k miles on two different bikes with Rotella T Syn with no problems at all. (He uses K&N filters too) |
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