I had trouble finding a good, comprehensive breakdown of the pair valve removal... Links to all would be appreciated...

I already have Yosh bolt-ons, so no need to hack anything...

I'll get burned at the stake for saying this, but....

Be careful with the airbox mod. I know more people who have had trouble with it than not. I haven't done it yet for that reason, but I did find a spare airbox on Ebay to cut up and play with when I get ready.

The TRE is a good mod, as is the PAIR valve removal. If you want to really have a scary ride, change around the sprockets. I tried a -1 in the front and the thing likes to wheelie even more now than it did before.

Also, re: the 520 conversion. Think long and hard about that one. Personally, I wouldn't run a 520 conversion on a liter bike. I've seen the carnage that results. It's not pretty. Think *new motor*.

Motor issues with 520 conversion... I fail to see how...

Easy. 520 chainsets typically are recommended for 750cc and down motorcycles by the major chain manufacturers. If you put a 520 chain on a liter bike, there's a chance it will never give you trouble. There's also the chance that it will give, sending the chain hurtling through your crankcase at speed. Believe me when I say that holes that big are not repairable with JB Weld.

Sure, racer guys use 520s. However, they also change out their chain and sprockets every race or two.

It's up to you of course, but I've always been of the opinion the weight savings in the chain/sprocket area wasn't enough to make it a chance I was willing to take.

I've been running 520 chain and sprockets on my Tuono for two years now. It wears out a lot quicker than 525 chain and sprockets but otherwise, I like it a lot better. Faster acceleration.

The absolute MEANEST bike I've ever heard is the Buell XBRR. Insanely loud and sounded like it was fueled by inhaling children.

if the pair mod is anything like the rc, its worth doing

Not to mention what'll happen to you leg when that SOB comes hurtling forward and literally whips around your ankle as it heads forward to shread apart your motor.

Belt drive FTW.

:lol: What else am I gonna say? :lol:

I was gonna put a smiley in there, but I couldn't figure how to do it while editing, so I deleted it thinking I was just gonna reply before you screwed everythin up. I guess it's cool that you don't have to worry about chain slack, however I had to help one my buddies reinstall the belt tensioner after he put his exhaust back on. Talk about a pain in the ass. After that experience, I'd much rather stick to 530 chains.

I haven't had to do that...but I hear the bearings wear out on the idler pulley (tensioner)...can't wait to replace those. :lol:

If it's anything like his XB12, I had no fun putting the tensioner back on. I literally had the rear tire off the ground trying to get some sag out of it so he could just slip the tensioner on, no go. (I'm 130# holding the back of his Buell in the air).

Hopefully I never have to take it off. Exhaust is already done...I'll probly get rid of the bike before the bearings are shot.

torque ftw :)

yeah, that never gets old

the 0-70 always has a massive grin factor

0-70, then i shift into 2nd... ;)

not in the weather we're having here you don't :lol:

Next time loosen the rear wheel axel nut about 6 or 7 turns. It slips right on, and there's no adjustment of the rear wheel you just tighten it back up to 23-27 ft lbs. then loosen it 2 turns again and re-tighten to 48-52. Then you tighten the pinch bolt to 40-45.

I was gonna say to use a high flow air filter, I run K&N, but they need a re-map with the filter and exhaust. My bike came with a 520 conversion on it and I dont really do much more than a few hundred highway miles at a time or city commuting, no track days so far, so I cant speak for how they hold up to a little ripping on them. I did switch to a Vortex rear sprocket, you will really want to save any weight you can. I will get you some links in a bit.

Charging system mod...http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequen...ystem-mod.html


Pair Mod...http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequen...val-guide.html

Also, if the long throw of the throttle puts you off a bit, you can put a Rifleman's 1/5 insert in or like me, I used the throttle tube from a 2001 Yamaha R1 or R6.


Fan switch...http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequen...an-switch.html


Airbox mod....http://www.carlsalter.com/tlrairboxmod.html

Hindight is 20/20 and we got the damn thing back on. I've only ridden a Buell once, and it was this guys. We swapped his Buell for my Honda one night heading to Denny's. I will never own or ride a Buell again. I'm not hating mind you, I simply have a preference for the riding position of my RC over his XB, and the fact that I can shift my RC out of first when leaned over with no problems.

Look at the tensile strengths of the various chain sizes... No bike runs them anywhere near capacity... The wear problem however could pose issues and breakage without defect or lack of maintenance is unlikely.


Yeah, the tensioner is ridiculously EASY if you go about it the right way...

I'll have to check that out when I'm less than 6 pitchers deep.

Leon's TL had the 520, he never had any issues.

Good to know. I've got the factory service manual (as should ALL Buell owners)...so it should be proper in there should I ever need to change it.

Tmall's description was right on, though I don't remember the torque settings nor did I ever use them.... I'd just take the rear wheel off though, unless you didn't have stands or a jack... Taking off the rear wheel is seriously like a 2 minute job... one minute of that is looking for the bigass allen wrenches.

Got rear stand. Shouldn't be an issue. I do need a front triple stand tho.

I have a $50 motorcycle/ATV jack from Harbor Freight... Underslung exhuast/jack point FTW.

I've thought about that. I like stands better...and my cousin has one should I need to jack it up.

I always just lift the rear a bit, kick a wooden box I have underneath it. And set it on it's kickstand. The rear is off the ground about 1/4 inch and muffler is made to support the weight if you have the jack point positioned properly. This way works for both wheels. I've removed the front and the rear using it.

This winter, I'll be tying it off to the rafters by the rear pegs and doing some maintenance to it. It's cheaper than stands and does the exact same job.

Tight as fuck. Even swap is even more killer.

yup just like ur wife


oh yeah nice ride OSP

Before:


Inspiration:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BhHTA6Gzn0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avwxZX_pYXU

I want to make the bike the TLS should have been... starting promptly at the beginning of the new year... stay tuned.

subscribed

Despite the videos... I don't plan on painting it black :lol:... Just realized that...:wtfru:

Should be interesting anyway.

:lol:

Glad you cleared that up

Sweet. Either way it's a sweet ride.

It's ok... it's going to be fucking awesome though. ;)

TLR riding position is nice. More distance to the bars than today's bikes. Hate the tail, though.

The yellow doesnt get rid of the ugly sadly.

:whistle:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...o/IMG_3445.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...o/IMG_3447.jpg

He's right, you got rid of most of the yellow, and its still ugly

Hataz gonna hate.

The yellow too, shall be gone. Due time, due time...

Hey...what's wrong with the yellow? :nee:

I like yellow.


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ftl4VsDkX5...%2520front.jpg

Typically when it comes to TL's yellow is slower.


Yes yes I said it.

:whatwhat:


Blue / white FTW

Funny, I've always heard the opposite...

You heard wrong. :wtfru:

How fast is a stripped bare version?

G-Rex's isn't one that I would really go comparing other TL's to (at least mine). His has had a few mod's done to it.

LOL true that Geoff. I posted a few pics earlier in this thread.

Knowing OSP and his penchant for stripping stuff down, it'll be about as light as mine, then he just needs to work over the motor.

Go back a few pages. I gave him a blow by blow of what he needs to do to that bike. Speaking of, you need to do all of it to yours too. What are you waiting on? LOL

I'm waiting for you to come up to Cincy to help pull the motor apart, and we shall go from there. Or how about if I yank the motor, and send it your way.

Unfortunately, for me and the TL, I really haven't dove into any major mods recently. The only things I've done was the full Yoshi exhaust with Ti cans, Ohlins rear, stainless lines, baseplate mod, Ivans TRE, BMF air filter, and dyno tuned with Yosh box. I need to dive into it this winter and do some more stuff.

Aside from styling... the plan includes...

PAIR removal and flapperectomy... if not already done [found the TRE when I took the fairings off]

All those electrical mods - those gremlins are probably whats causing it not to start... going as far as to consider the SV coils...

Still debating the airbox mod... good filter at least...

flashed ECU...

chain/sprockets... gonna stay 530 just in case...prolly going with -1/+2.....

Showa shock mod, unless I can find a sick deal on a really good one

My stock chain snapped on me about 5 yrs ago with 12K miles. I don't think it was user error. I'm pretty good with maintenance and keeping it lubed and adjusted properly. But for a replacement I went with the following. I stayed with the stock 530 size. I don't know if you remember Flood from CF, but he had a heavily worked over TLR and put a 520 on there and the chain let loose and took the block out with it, IIRC. G-rex can probably remember what happened better than I.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/110_1022.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/110_1021.jpg



Here is the stock chain, it got caught in the bolts that hold the sprocket to the cush, and wedging itself in the swingarm, bringing the rear tire to a stop at 50 mph.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/109_0991.jpg

I love hearing an RC 51 at high RPMs.

If I were to go 520, I'd dump the cheddar and go with Sidewinder shit... no need to worrry about that shit - their 520 chains are rated double some 530 chains. I'm not racing though, so the extra $100+ prolly ain't worth it...

They do sound good.

YUM I love the smell of new parts in the morning.

Some disassembly this evening... found that not only does my bike have the TRE, but also already has the airbox mod... however, it still has the PAIR valve - WTF.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...o/IMG_3516.jpg

Anyway, that's a project for another day, but the hack job removing the flappers and sealing it with some kind of construction adhesive is worth a look.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...o/IMG_3509.jpg

Not sure how I want to go about redoing that... maybe get a stock airbox and start over...

Oh and WTF is this that I found hiding under the steering head?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...IMG_3517-1.jpg

Looks like the connection for the horn.

horn is located above the top radiator

Doh! I'm a fucking moron... I knew that when I first found it when I took off my fairings... then I forgot... many a beer between then and now...

You'll have that on the larger scale projects.

I've done that too. You think you know what every connection is, but a few weeks go by, and then its time to get out the ol' dealer manual and start searching.


I think I'm going to do some more airbox work, brakes / rotors, and get a new clutch. I put new fluid in over the summer, SS lines a few years back and still doesn't have the bite it used to.

gotta grab one off of a caravan, they come with a big snail around em and get pretty loud

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0915091853.jpg

Are the clutches on the S and the R similar? I need to replace the clutch on my S. I picked up a clear cover and an annodized pressure plate. When I last tried running the bike I had a major oil leak, wasnt sure if the pushrod seal went or was from the countershaft.

I have my mini airhorn on my truck... it never worked (has an internal short), so I might rip that thing off, fix it, and run that... Just depends on if I have the real estate for it.... things should be pretty tight on this build.

any space on the subframe, a friend mounted a horn like that on his ducati there.

That I don't know.

Where did you get your anodized pressure plate from?

I've got the riflemans clear cover.


I need to get back over to TLzone to see what's the latest and greatest, haven't been over there for a while.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v127/Hydrant/042.jpg

I honestly dont remember, it wa sone of the GB's on tlzone, not sure if it was rifleman who made them, I got a few other bits as well from them.

There would be if I wasn't planning on relocating the battery and as much of the electronics as possible in there... oh, and chopping half of that shit off...

Fine, I wont offer any ideas anymore :lol:

If thats the case could you squeeze one in the old battery tray or something else is going there.

Actually, that's a pretty solid idea... I could make a bracket to hold it there, but the whole idea of moving the battery was to lose the ugliness on the side, so in that case I might as well keep the battery there... :lol:

Shit, I think I might just leave the battery there... That would be much easier than rerouting all that wiring... I'll probably just get a nifty battery box cover or something...

OSP
Group buy for steel sprockets and 520 chain

http://www.tlplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81788

I'll have to check this to see if I can get some for the SV...
Registering now.

TL Streetfighter ideas

http://www.chucksirois.com/TL1000/fi...ghter-skin.htm

I couldn't get on that site, but chains were just discussed in another thread. Here's some facts:

DID 630 O-ring, tensile strength- 11,000 lbs
DID 530 X-ring, tensile strength- 9,760 lbs
DID 520 X-ring, tensile strength- 6,830 lbs

Why put on a weaker chain than stock?

That is sick. Love the brass knuckle theme. The coolant overflow is a sweet idea too. Nicely done fighter whoever did that.

gotta shave off those extra ounces of unsprung weight LOL

I'm with ya, but it's not my bike. He just mentioned that he was interested in the 520 conversion. I have the DID 530 chain and AFAM steel sprockets on mine when I had to replace it.

Did it yesterday... and FYI, the tensile strength of the stock chain is 9,330lbs, whereas the RK isn't far off at 8,800lbs. If it stretches too much, I'll swap it back to 530. The price was right and a lot of other guys are running 530 without issue, so I'm going to take the risk.

I'm ALL over that site.

Parts ordered yesterday - 520 chain conversion kit up two teeth on the rear... headlights... gonna look for more shit today...

the chain mod will make a big difference, more on the gearing then the size change but still will be very noticeable

I know, I got a semi-chub just ordering it... should be real interesting when I do the 1/5 throttle insert mod.

another thing i did to the rc that made it a beast... ur on the right track to a hellva ride

Plus I'd like to hack off about 50lbs...

what would that put you @ 185#'s???

:lol

I have my TLR geared right now at stock in the front, 3 up in the rear. The front *will* come up very easily with almost any amount of throttle up through 3rd gear. You better have a few changes of underwear handy. You'll need them.

I've dropped about 30-40 lbs off of my bike, thanks to liberal use of magnesium and titanium. You'll be amazed at the difference it will make. Even more so if you'd buy some damn magnesium wheels. ;)

A lot of gsxr and honda guys use stock r1/r6 throttle tubes. Ought to work on the tlr as well and its like $15

No, I wish... That's 50lbs off the bike... I'd like to do another 75 off me...

:squint:

It's about damn time I learned throttle control...

I am down for some light wheels, but there is no way in hell I'm even close to ready to drop the cheddar... Still looking for that sweet deal where some guy crashed his race bike, then his wife took it in the divorce, and she doesn't know what Marchesini or Ohlins means...

It does, but you can also hack a peice of $0.10 PVC pipe and make your own insert... which is what I plan on doing...

that or the zip tye mod works well to

Yeah, I have some reservations about using a zip tie... either way, it's cheap and effective...

i did the zip tye to the zx6, worked fine, for the rc i sucked it up and ordered a HRC throttle tube

Moar parts ordered today...

unmolested airbox w/ K&N filter off eBay for under $50!

SV1000 coils (not needed, just hotter)

Also upgrading the crap stocker R/R... so I bought a MOSFET R/R...

Nigga. I got an airbox with k&n for around$ 15 off of ebay. Sit back down. I wish i could get a deal on a better filter for my er6n. Im not paying $75 for one.

I like the coil idea. Those are pretty much standard two wire connections and screw on spark plug wire arent they? I wonder if RC51's run hotter than my vfr's. Of course electrical isnt hondas bread & butter so i eont want my bike turning into the human torch.

Whatever jerk, I thought it was a hell of a deal considering the TLR guys sell the filter alone for about what I paid for everything...

I'm sure there's something on the VFR forums about the coil mod if it does anything for you...

I got lucky on it. The title just said air box with filter. Love it when people dont know what theyre selling. Now i have a backup. Its the same way i got my throttlemeister for $15. Just said bar ends.


I really need to replace my O2 sensors. Theyre filthy. Also need to get on the ball with the 6th gen throttlebody swap.

Yeah, I just placed a bid on another one... same deal, but $9.99... I figure I can sell one on the forums when someone needs it and make a couple of bucks...

Why go with mag wheels? Might as well go whole hog with carbon fiber rims.