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On a street bike, don't change the gearing. You'll just waste gas and keep the bike higher in the revs all the time for no reason.
Go with an x-ring chain, DID ERV3 is the top of the line. Stick with stock link size (525) if you don't intend to change the chain any more frequently than you HAVE to. Yes, change the sprockets and the chain at the same time, it's good practice. |
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Gearing is incredibly important...Don't just go with the squids and throw on a 520 -1/+2 setup...Dependiong on the bike and the rpm range of the engine it could be completely wrong...Experiment find a happy medium between your cruising rpm and your performance needs.
Don't think a 520 will instantly make you noticeably faster...A 520 with an aluminum rear sprocket will be less rotating weight but also wear faster and need replacing sooner. For the street where you have alot of miles I say stay with the stock 525, go with a stock front and stainless steel rear and get your stock gearing and 1 tooth larger rear and 2 tooth larger rear. This will let you experiment in increments. If you go bigger than 3 extra teeth on the stock rear size your probably going to need a larger chain or drop the front size one tooth and experiment with the different rears, either way it will start to get expensive. On the track you want to gear for top gear redline on the longest straight, although you want to find a gear that works well in the tighter slower corners, if possible keeping you in 2 nd and from having to drop across nueral into first in the slower turns... It is an art I tell you! |
I got me a 520 stock from the factory. :whistle:
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I must add that I'm referring to liter bikes. :iagree: its an art. Whats right for me may not be right for others. My choice keeps me out of first most all the time. Not an easy task with long legged liter bikes in the mountains.
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I'm probably going to go -1 on the front. Any lower than that and 1st gear will be of no use to me. The front tire is already super light as it is.
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Why run the bike in it's powerband all the time and waste gas and engine wear? Why ride on the highway at 70 in 6th gear and have your engine be buzzing at 12krpm? Why do you need to come out of a corner way up in the powerband, are you driving out of corners like it's a track and spinning up the rear? Racing buddies to the next stop sign? For most twisties there should be minimal (if any) braking into and driving out of corners... you're just out for a cruise... just take a mild pace and slightly positive throttle, throw the bike around a bit in the curves. You don't need to bottom out the forks on the brakes, trailbrake in there dragging knee, and drive out WFO spinning the rear tire... We are talking about STREET riding... it's all pointless. And if it's not pointless for you, you should probably tone it down before you start eating guardrails; take it to the track (this part not directed specifically at you jeeps) Anyways, that's just my outlook on the street now. I know some people still enjoy pushing it out there but to me it's stupid... there are no trophies, too many variables, changing conditions, stupid drivers, etc... I also have no desire to ride my 600SS on the street anymore, it's just a waste. I'll be getting something more fun with less power for the street in the spring and racing my 6. |
I changed my gearing primarily because it works better at the track days. Hallett Motor Racing Circuit is the closest and 3.06 or 3.07 final ratio is perfect for that short 1.8 miles.
On the street the advantages i see is I can lug around in traffic in first easier without using too much clutch, I can roll up a wheelie on the throttle with no clutch hijinx or tugging on the bars, and I chased liter bikes all day a weekend or two back and never spun a tire...And still get 43-45 mpg. Moderation is the key. |
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