Replacing Solenoid?
 

Here's the deal:

Bike wont start.

Replaced the battery as it appeared the battery was just old and losing juice. Still wont start.

Turn the key, lights come on, the gauges prime, fuel pump primes, but when I punch the starter, I get absolutely nothing. (Other than the F1 light and some unrelated clicking). Kickstand is up, clutch engaged, tried in both neutral and in gear, so that ruled out the safety switch.

I stopped by the local shop to get their take, they think its the solenoid.

So, how hard is it to replace this on my own?

I don't know on a bike. On a cage it's super easy. So i can't imagine it would be hard on a bike. There isn't much to them.

Sadly, I havent worked on the bike in ages and am totally brain dead about it. Im ashamed.

I am looking at the manuals website to see what I can find out as well.

It is incredibly easy.

My last Gixxer was older than yours but the solenoid was under the seat, iirc.

I wouldn't even consider taking it to a shop, you can do it yourself and it will be a great confidence booster if you are new to turning wrenches.

Probably pretty easy to replace it. I found some posts on gixxer.com with people having similar issues when they lose their stator too on the k6 and k7.

Piece of cake - there is also a fuse located on it which could be blown (hadn't seen that before).

It's under the seat, mounted behind the battery & under a plastic cover, iirc. Here is a picture of it (item 1), though it doesn't show its mounting location.

http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_sectio...006&fveh=11387

After exposing it & checking the fuse, you can also check that it's receiving a 12+ signal to rule out any other component, and then 'jumper' the starter terminals to verify that the relay is not functioning but the starter is. If you can use the help walking through it (since Kathy and I have basically identical bikes), just call (#s PM'd).

They think it's the solenoid? The solenoid can be jumped (very carefully) by any shadetree mechanic. Actually, my brother showed me how to do it when I was 10 years old.

Anyway most of the time, the solenoid is not the problem. Usually it's the wiring, connections, or starter. Use a digital voltmeter and your manual. If it's the starter, they can easily be taken apart and cleaned. If it is the solenoid, it's easily replaced (depending on where it is).

Hubby's response - go to the Kawasaki dealer :)

Did the tip over switch get tripped for some reason?

Edit - probably isn't the switch if pump is priming.

Ignition sensor?

Here's what I would do if I was there. Jumper the solenoid and try to start it, if it starts then you know that it's the solenoid and you can just buy a new solenoid and be good to go again. If it doesn't start then I (emphasis on the I) would take the starter out and connect each terminal straight to the battery and see if it spins, if it doesn't then you have a bad starter, if it does spin than you a problem with your wiring (which I don't think likely given that I've torn that bike almost completely apart). Based on the symptoms that you mentioned it sounds like the starter solenoid gave up and it should be under you seat.

That pretty much sums up what I was thinking. I wouldn't expect a solenoid to quit without at least a little warning typically, but the onboard fuse may have blown due to the resistance-drop/amperage-spike caused by 'shorted' windings.

what he said. If you have a voltmeter and know how to read it it can help a ton. (usually the solenoids are under the seat at least it is on my tl and similar year gsxrs.)

PULL THE CONNECTOR OFF THE CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH AND JUMP IT WITH A PIECE OF WIRE...quick before you do anything else, try it. Suzuki motorcycles will not start in any gear position without the clutch safety switch engaged, trust me.

That's a very good possibility & definitely the next thing to check - good thinkin'!

I'm used to my Hondas which will start in N whether the clutch is pulled or not. She said the pump was priming, so in my mind I ruled-out the kickstand, tip-over, and clutch switch - but you're right, the pump will still prime w/ the clutch out (or the switch defective), just not engage the starter.

Rae, the switch Tigger's talking about is at the bottom of the clutch mount - you should see two wires & the connectors which plug into the switch looking down from above the tank. You can pull those connectors off, and use a small piece of wire to 'jumper' between them.

Don't say I don't love you, Rae!

Here's the spot.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/kdk_0891.jpg

Take an allen wrench and loosen your clutch lever mount.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/kdk_0883.jpg

Pull the plug off, you'll need to push in on the snap-thingey...:lol:

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/kdk_0886.jpg

Call NASA and have them send you this "specialty tool" or make one yourself, I guess....

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/kdk_0887.jpg

Shove it in the holes and hopefully start your bike... MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL !

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/kdk_0888.jpg

Thanks guys!! Im outta town for Indy right now, but I'll get on it when I get home!!