did some painting and powdercoating on the busa
 

thanks to a busa board member for the tip on rustoleum satin
local board member hooked me up on the powdercoat job!

painted the brake/clutch hand levers, swingarm bolt, engine bolt rear brake cylinder and little detail bits also painted the exhaust bracket bolt

P/C the rearsets, buell pegs, shift/brake levers, pass pegs, shift rod, the 6 big bolt heads and 2 smaller ones

now to the pics

http://i50.tinypic.com/t0lslk.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/16bhe37.jpg

stock
http://www.suzukicycles.org/photos/G...R_blue_800.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/14y1bs.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/28lz0o1.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/2zp2kbc.jpg

debating on whether to paint the throttlemeister ends and see how it holds up or P/C them. my throttlemeister on my VFR were P/C and actually wore off where my glove contacted them alot.

http://i50.tinypic.com/21e99bc.jpg


generic pic of my HID lit up

http://i49.tinypic.com/wrgn4g.jpg

nice project there

looks good! nice

looks good.

more info on this satin black Rustoleum, please.

Ah, the happy bus... still one of my favorite I4's :dthumb:
Nice job, Ed. The changes were subtle and tasteful.

Nice, I like that. I might have to do something similar, but I need to get a new seat, raise the rear and get a PC3/5

Looks great! What's next?

well i did wanna buy your sprocket lol

i'd like to black out the rear axle
maybe paint the silver part of the gascap

only thing i'd do performane wise is flash the ecu, but i'm having a hard time justifying $300-400 for 7-8hp and "smoother" power.

think i should paint or powdercoat my throttlemeister.

karl, is there a place that flashes the ECU nearby? would you prefer that or a PC? why?

I can't speak for Karl, but given how much trouble I had with the PC2 on my Tiller, I'd go for the ECU adjustment.
When I had the Warrior, a lot of guys on the forums that went with the PC3 spliced theirs directly into the wiring instead of using the connectors.
Apparently there was a fairly common issue with the stock connectors where the impedance would be off by a few ohms and would cause the adjustment to be thrown off, causing performance problems.
With that sort of issue as a possibility, I'd rather just have the ECU flashed. :idk:

thanks, good to know.

i also had a bad experience w/ a PC and took it off w/ the VFR way back.

only place i know of "locally" that flashes is johnny cheese, near austin. would be a nice day trip

i just can't justify $350 for a PC , then another $300+ for a tune........

my powdercoat buddy said he'd P/C my throttlemeisters for free since i gave him good feedback on our local forum..... :)

I used the same paint on a few parts of mine too.

I don't know of any shop that will reflash the ECU around here.
Plus it is easier to return to stock(and I could sell the parts separately) if I ever needed to sell.

Have you looked around? I know of one here that does. My friend Ian has a dragrace only busa, and had his flashed early last season while he waited for dyno time. It was an hour away, but the nearest mc dyno tuner is 3 hours.

well to optimize a tuning "flash" you need to dyno tune at the same time just like a PC.

think i'm gonna paint all the bolt heads today.

at home w/ kids, wife at work, weathers nice, wanna be outside.

Man...Lucky for me Kawi Powdercoated my Ish black from the Factory :)

Looks good though, All bikes should come like that...It looks so much cleaner

your bike is awesome. That's exactly what mine would look like in my mind's eye. Trade you my $12,000 Vmax that's worth $6000 for it!

I will gen a Gen II Hayabusa. Might take me several years....but I will. Stupid kids!

p.s.


How's the power output?

more then adequate.........but could always use a lil more........

got some bolt heads done black , 4 more to go tom.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2a9ctwx.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/mutrwl.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/e00bcp.jpg

somebody on local board told me to get rid of the gold, thats my fav. part of the bike.

If you are interested in Flashing your ECU (things that can be done without the Dyno removing the timing retard speed limiters , making small adjustment to the maps) Boost by Smith sells a ECO flash Kit for $200. I just bought one for the B King. Dyno can get expensive, they Guy I use wants $80 and hour, since the king is mostly stock I am just going to de-restrict 5th and 6th and 2nd as soon atthe software allows.

Looks good man.

guy locally posted up a dyno tune from johnny cheese for like $300, so for $100 more i could it mapped profesionally. wish more dealers would get into this, but it's less profit then a PC and dyno tuning.

In this weather, it just spins everywhere, in every gear.
Power is adequate.:D

Mine was 168hp stock with about 600 miles on it.

thought i finished off the remaining bolts, but the more you do the more you see you wanna paint.

so tom. i wanna paint the outer silver ring of the gas cap and maybe take off the brake bolts and ft axle bolts, also saw a bolt holding the rear brake line down that could use painting.......

ended up painting the 4 main fairing bolts, 2 on the ft fender i had missed, the riser spacers and the huge riser bolt heads.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2cohqbc.jpg

Yeah I am taking the Busa down to Dracut Ma to DAC on friday It is using the PC and the Hahn MAP controled fuel rail. I have an estimate of between 300 and 400. I have to be Honest, Unless you have made some Major changes Dyno time is awfully pricey for a rigg that has an O2 Sensor.
Love what you have done with your Gen 2 BTW

right, thats why i;m having a hard time justifying a flash let alone a PC an tune, all for what 7-8hp and a "smoother" delivery. i dunno about you but stock the busa accelerates like a jet....

thanks, to cloudy and rainy to do any tinkering today.

Whats the paint you're using Ed?

Link?

Looks great! I really like that color scheme. :dthumb:

Amazing how much blacking-out the bits & pieces 'cleans up' the look of a bike. :yes:

You're a safety instructor, yet you removed the reflectors? redflip

not my shag run......lol

but a busa board guy posted up about it

the longer it dries the tougher the finish.

i got itat home depot, but i even saw it wal mart later on , so it's pretty common.

Wow...simple

Wonder how it will wear over time

well the pieces i painted are non wear, they just sit there. and once in a while i take them off. so just take a lil more care when taking them off.

if the finish gets bad enough, just hit it w/ some thinner and redo it.

looks very nice.

Looks good Ed.