Honda VFR oil cooler swap
 

I'm tired of the oil and coolant cooling system on this bike so I'm gonna use my high school and some college brain to do it how the brainy acts over on the little island should have done it. I might get a raging brainer over this.


Here's the three Honda's. From top to bottom. 5th gen - 6th gen - RC51 ('00-'01)

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...rmod1Large.jpg


5th gen cooler

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler2Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler3Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler4Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler5Large.jpg


6th gen

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler2Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler3Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler4Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler5Large.jpg


RC51

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler2Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler3Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler4Large.jpg

As you can see. The ports are a tad bigger.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler5Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler6Large.jpg



GSXR 1000

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler2Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler3Large.jpg

Geez...where do you get all these spare parts? Anyway, I'm guessing you're going to fab the superior Suzuki part to your Honda. It looks pretty simple to me. Do the lines from the GSXR fit your bike?

I'll be using the RC51. The GSXR is a last resort. Also if would probably cool too much in the winter.


The cool thing about lines is you see where the crimp is. You can actually cut that off and reveal a nipple where the hose slide onto.

I don't think running too much rad area is really a problem... come on

Not for an air cooled sissy bike like yours. The main problem is the side rads. The weird is it runs like every vfr in the summer. 180's on the highway and in the 200's in traffic or slow riding, but in the winter it has a hard time keeping 170F on the highway. I've changed the T-stat and even block 1 rad, but barely keeps it in the "warm" range. I'll defiantly have to block oil rad now.

Got her done.

Loosened the stock cooler and let it hang.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap1Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap10Large.jpg


I was hoping I wouldn't but I had to drain the oil. I tried using an 8mm wrench, but the bolt started stripping. Had to get a socket on them.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap2Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap3Large.jpg


Once the oil drains, then you can unbolt the oil lines from the engine.

Left side.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap4Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap6Large.jpg

Right side.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap5Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap9Large.jpg


Luckily the O-rings look brand new. Not even smashed.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap8Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...swap7Large.jpg


Might as well wash the lines. Just tiny spot rust here and there. Maybe I'll order new ones or have them powder coated.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap11Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap12Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap13Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap14Large.jpg

Time to temporary mount the RC cooler.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap15Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap16Large.jpg


The mount on the cooler is more offset than the stock one. It'll be a little closer to the right rad.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap17Large.jpg


Here's the fun tedious fun part. Bending the lines to fit. You'll be pulling them out and putting back multiple times. The right one I used a rubber mallet. I placed the right oil line on the ground with the cooler mount upward. I smacked it down with the mallet. No science there.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap18Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap19Large.jpg


The left side you have to twist the oil cooler line where it bolts to the cooler. I used a pair of pliers and my manly strength. Of course a vise would have made it easier.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap29Large.jpg


Once they're lined up as good as possible, get the engine side ready.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap20Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap21Large.jpg


The middle o-ring is what I used. I also used one smaller one to fit inside that one. Double the sealing. LOL

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap23Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap24Large.jpg

Bolt the oil cooler lines on first, then bolt the cooler to it's brackets second, and last bolt the engine side of the oil lines.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap25Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap26Large.jpg

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap27Large.jpg


The right side does have a slight problem. Since the line is lowered from the oil rad being taller.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap28Large.jpg


The left side has no problem with hitting anything.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...wap30Large.jpg

Here's what a high pressure line looks like when you cut the crimp off.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,88319.0.html

Just curious... what made you think that the Jap engineers don't know how to design cooling systems?

So why are you swapping again?

For better cooling. With these side rads, the bike doesnt actually start cooling off unless I'm going 60mph or higher. It's a drag to be in slow traffic or stopped traffic and the heat just keeps building and building.

Which do you think is cheaper to manufacture?

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg

or

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...oler1Large.jpg



The stock cooling works since I've never seen or read about a vfr blowing up, but as with anything it can always be better. Why have the temp at 225F or higher in slow traffic when you can have it at 200F or lower? Cause that's the way I am and I'm sticking to it. Sure I could have spent the money on this cooler on some LED blinkers but that isn't going to make my bike last longer.

Question, I've always just wired the fan to stay on with a switch when I've had those types of problems with a bike. Wouldn't that have worked as well or better? Regardless of how large a cooler you have, without air flow it won't be very effective... Of course, I'm not very smart so carry on....:idk:

Charging systems on bikes are not as reliable as vehicles. I'd rather not risk my R/R melting or my stator burning out. With the stator inside the engine, it is as hot as the engine if not hotter. The alternator of vehicle is separate and has its own cooling.


Ya ya. I know. "My bike has never had an electrical problem." Good, I hope you don't cause they suck.

I rode today in 90's and I could see a different. Temp was lower on the highway. It would heat up in traffic but a lot slower and it never hit 215F.

Wire it directly to the battery.

Yea that's what I was getting at ... you wire in a relay that runs power from the battery.

LED's may not make it last longer, but they sure as hell will make it faster.

When there is a load on the battey, the charging system is on.

So when the bike is running, the charging system is on. Mmmmk.

Where did i say when the bike is on? Your charging system doesnt operate at full blast when its on. It adjust itself to the load on the battery.

Fellas...

When there is a load on the battery, whether the bike is on or off, it will affect the charge/discharge system of the bike.

However, I don't agree that running the fan, which is an integral part of the electrical system will have an adverse effect on the system itself. In fact, I've looked at this situation a bit more and still think that if you had wired one fan to run whenever the bike was on, you would have achieved the same result, perhaps even slightly better. Again, more rad surface without airflow....

My ZX-11 is a gajillion years old with 4hunfred million miles
Original electro luv inside

My CB, friends Hurricanes and CBR's. Electrics were a fucking ticking time bomb.

Reminds me...I got make sure I have emergency numbers for friends with pickups and and reputable tow companies on my phone now that I'm back in Honda camp.

Depends on the amps the fan is pulling. If its high enough and is on constant, it will hurt the battery. I don't trust these little batteries. I never said running the fan from time to time was bad. I was stating from a "constant" on.

Actually turning it on is where it's going to draw the most current... Letting it run for two straight hours will probably be easier on the system than having it go on and off 5 times.

I believe that there are two fans, if you have one run all the time or whenever you are in a traffic situation, it'll cut down on the time the second fan runs...which should lower your overall current draw profile. Or not.:idk:

Maybe... You just have to figure out what the current draw is at startup vs the running current... Then try to figure out how often it will kick on and off...

Like when you buy an air conditioner for your house... it's better to buy one sized right, or a little smaller, than to buy one that's too big for your place. Letting one run all the time uses less energy than one that clicks on and off a dozen times an hour.

Yea...kinda...I'm not sure about that. :idk: