lets talk chains and sprockets
 

My chain is stretched to the max and I need to get a new chain and sprockets Id assume. I want to do a -1 in the front/+2 in the rear for the sprockets and someone was telling me to do a 525 conversion. Is that even possible on a 2001 GSXR 750. I was also told to do a "X Ring" chain because of durability.

As far as keeping my speedo to read correctly what do I need there.

Where is a good/inexpensive vendor to get all this stuff at.

Renthal Sprockets. DID or Regina chain. I went with x-ring. Just check around on the internet for prices. A decent chain and sprocket set isn't cheap. About the 525, no clue.

Instead of what someone told you, how about figuring it out for yourself. Find a conversion table online. The -1, +2 is about a 10 percent change. That means if your top speed was 150, your new top speed is 135. If your cruising rpm was 5,000, your new cruising rpm for the same speed is 5,500. If your mpg was 40, your new one will be 36. Most speedos read 10 percent more right from the factory. So 60 on the dial is really 54 mph. Another 10 percent would be 48 mph when the speedo reads 60. And you think your Gixxer could loop it before, with the -1, +2, well, I don't have to tell you.

Do like T said but go 520. Many guys are running 520's on way more powerfull bikes than the 750

The 525 is stronger than a 520 but will be more $$$

But the 520 is lighter and you have less rotational mass in the drivetrain which means less drivetrain power loss which means more power to the rear wheel.

Everyone recommended for me to get a 530 on my modded R1. The 520 should be fine though.

I just got off the phone with a local bike shop and they said the stock chain is a 525. So I will just stick with a 525.... Is there anything I can get that will calibrate the speedo to read correctly.

speedohealer.

Yeah and to calib the speedo healer you will need to have a rear stand.

how hard is it to install and calibrate the speedo healer.

Install is plug and play. Calibration takes some math and or a rear stand.

Well I have a stand and I used to be good at math in highschool and college so I am sure I can figure it out.

I figured it out so Im sure a 5th grader could easily install it. You should be fine.

Exactly.. if we could install it, anybody could!! :lol:

it's stupid easy to install... just find the plug for your spedo coming out of your trany.


as for calibrating... I used my GPS so I could get it spot on. if you have no gas gauge it's more important you get this right as even 1% off adds up over a full tank and you may be caught off guard running low on fuel. :2cents:

This may be a stupid question but when you are replacing your chain do you have to replace both sprockets with it.

As a general practice, YES. Truth, use your own judgment. If all the teeth on both or either sprockets are good, Then they are good. Just make sure the teeth are of equal pitch on both sides, equal hight and nice and blunt tips.

If you changing the chain size then always yes.

As long as you have someone around that can find the plug for the speedo for you... :whistle:

On a street bike, don't change the gearing. You'll just waste gas and keep the bike higher in the revs all the time for no reason.

Go with an x-ring chain, DID ERV3 is the top of the line.

Stick with stock link size (525) if you don't intend to change the chain any more frequently than you HAVE to.

Yes, change the sprockets and the chain at the same time, it's good practice.

I disagree. Stock gearing is way to high for my preference. Most bikes are geared for economy as well as performance. Cant argue with raising the reves (dropping the economy a bit) but dropping one tooth on the front puts most every bike I have owned in its peek power range more easily. One down and two up works best for my riding style. It kills the top end but where the hell am I going to run 200mph around here?

Gearing is incredibly important...Don't just go with the squids and throw on a 520 -1/+2 setup...Dependiong on the bike and the rpm range of the engine it could be completely wrong...Experiment find a happy medium between your cruising rpm and your performance needs.

Don't think a 520 will instantly make you noticeably faster...A 520 with an aluminum rear sprocket will be less rotating weight but also wear faster and need replacing sooner.

For the street where you have alot of miles I say stay with the stock 525, go with a stock front and stainless steel rear and get your stock gearing and 1 tooth larger rear and 2 tooth larger rear. This will let you experiment in increments. If you go bigger than 3 extra teeth on the stock rear size your probably going to need a larger chain or drop the front size one tooth and experiment with the different rears, either way it will start to get expensive.

On the track you want to gear for top gear redline on the longest straight, although you want to find a gear that works well in the tighter slower corners, if possible keeping you in 2 nd and from having to drop across nueral into first in the slower turns...

It is an art I tell you!

I got me a 520 stock from the factory. :whistle:

I must add that I'm referring to liter bikes. :iagree: its an art. Whats right for me may not be right for others. My choice keeps me out of first most all the time. Not an easy task with long legged liter bikes in the mountains.

Yeah it is all real bike and rider preference specific. My lil buzzy 636 does fine with just 2 extra rear teeth. Stock was 2.87 final and I run at 3.00 AOK...I could go 3.07 with another tooth but it is real peppy as is.

I'm probably going to go -1 on the front. Any lower than that and 1st gear will be of no use to me. The front tire is already super light as it is.

Not to start a fight with you or any of the other people here talking about gearing changes on their street bikes, but what's the point???? :idk:

Why run the bike in it's powerband all the time and waste gas and engine wear? Why ride on the highway at 70 in 6th gear and have your engine be buzzing at 12krpm?

Why do you need to come out of a corner way up in the powerband, are you driving out of corners like it's a track and spinning up the rear? Racing buddies to the next stop sign?

For most twisties there should be minimal (if any) braking into and driving out of corners... you're just out for a cruise... just take a mild pace and slightly positive throttle, throw the bike around a bit in the curves. You don't need to bottom out the forks on the brakes, trailbrake in there dragging knee, and drive out WFO spinning the rear tire...

We are talking about STREET riding... it's all pointless. And if it's not pointless for you, you should probably tone it down before you start eating guardrails; take it to the track (this part not directed specifically at you jeeps)


Anyways, that's just my outlook on the street now. I know some people still enjoy pushing it out there but to me it's stupid... there are no trophies, too many variables, changing conditions, stupid drivers, etc... I also have no desire to ride my 600SS on the street anymore, it's just a waste. I'll be getting something more fun with less power for the street in the spring and racing my 6.

I changed my gearing primarily because it works better at the track days. Hallett Motor Racing Circuit is the closest and 3.06 or 3.07 final ratio is perfect for that short 1.8 miles.

On the street the advantages i see is I can lug around in traffic in first easier without using too much clutch, I can roll up a wheelie on the throttle with no clutch hijinx or tugging on the bars, and I chased liter bikes all day a weekend or two back and never spun a tire...And still get 43-45 mpg. Moderation is the key.

First the track is several hours away. Plus why I rarely ride SS bike on the street any more. I dont have enough since to slow my ass down. I just love to ride the way the bike was built to be ridden. Other wise kiss my ass.:deadhorse:

And people wonder why I have fun riding my old GS1000. The torque curve looks like a big scoop of ice cream, with the peak at 6K. The new sport 600's have their torque peak at 11K or above. Engines are most efficient when running near their torque peak. That's why they scream.

And only severe gearing will help these bikes. The 600 race bikes are race bikes. The engines have developed into high rpm horsepower because that's what sells bikes. So what that there's no power below 6K.

Around here, half the corners are blind. I don't like accelerating out of these corners until I see the road is clear. That's why mid-range power is so important to me. And maybe you would like a bike with mid-range torque instead of high-rpm horsepower.

The new liter bikes have it because of their cubic inches, but so do a bunch of older 600's and 750's. Too bad a lot of riders don't want the older bikes just because some idiots at some magazines say "this new 600 makes more horsepower than any 750 of just a few years ago." Show me the torque curve buddy.

As usual, I agree with you.

If I do keep this bike and do not trade it in on what I really want I am going to gear the shit out of it to make it quicker. I figure if i have to change out the sprockets I may as well get some more performance out of this thing and make it a little more fun to ride right. 3rd gear stand ups FTW. :kawi:

Just do what you gotta do to make it a fun bike for YOU to ride. CEO ain't riding that bitch. He's got his own agenda. At the end of the day it's your bike. Do what you want to make yourself happy....whether thats track riding, street riding, or what have you. As long as your enjoying yourself you'll be just fine.

How do I know this? I'm riding a bike that doesn't turn Japanese lap times...yet I'm still having fun when I ride. Amazing how that works.

:iagree: V-twin FTW!!! 25 ft-lb dif from idle to redline... and a min of 50 ft-lb!!

Mine can come close, and is far easier and more comfortable to ride on the street.