stainless steel oil filters

[goof2]

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

[Cutty72]

Originally Posted by goof2

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

3 years and it's paid for itself for me.

I should look into it.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by goof2

Not deaf ears, but when they hear $100+ for an oil filter they become very hard of hearing.

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

If it takes you any more than 5-10 minutes to clean a filter, you're doing it wrong. If you use solvents you should be able to dunk and swish. If you use compressed air, wrap it in a rag and blow the air through.. We do it all the time at work.

How long does it take you to drive to the store and back and wait at the parts counter? That's not to say you couldn't just buy a case of oil filters..

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by Tmall

If it takes you any more than 5-10 minutes to clean a filter, you're doing it wrong. If you use solvents you should be able to dunk and swish. If you use compressed air, wrap it in a rag and blow the air through.. We do it all the time at work.

I'm too anal about my bikes, to do anything in 5-10 minutes.

A question about solvents; What are you using, and what effect does its ingredients have on your oil?

Originally Posted by Tmall

How long does it take you to drive to the store and back and wait at the parts counter? That's not to say you couldn't just buy a case of oil filters..

My filter supply is usually about 6 deep, per bike. It's a 90 minute round trip to "town", so I hoard bike supplies.

JC

[Tmall]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

I'm too anal about my bikes, to do anything in 5-10 minutes.

A question about solvents; What are you using, and what effect does its ingredients have on your oil?



My filter supply is usually about 6 deep, per bike. It's a 90 minute round trip to "town", so I hoard bike supplies.

JC

We use Jizer quite often. It's a kerosene based water soluble degreaser. I fill a bucket with it and another with water. I dunk our cruise diesel particulate filters in it, swish em around and toss them in the water. They're spotless in seconds. They get another swish in the water, dried off with compressed air and then reassembled.

Most oil has fuel in it anyway. There's a really easy way to test for it. We use a Kittiwake machine (http://www.kittiwake.com/). But, when I started the job we used to use a ball bearing test. You fill a test tube with old oil, and one with new oil. You drop a ball bearing in and time it. If the old oil allows the bearing to fall faster, it has fuel contamination, any slower and it's carbon/solids build up. The only problem was, what if it's contaminated from both? Which is why we use the new system.

[Gas Man]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

The problem here is that the paper filter doesn't filter at 10 microns for very long. Then it filters even higher than the ss filters. Where as the SS 35 micron is absolute.

Originally Posted by goof2

It comes with one of those filter wrench attachment things that fit over the top of the filter and connects to a ratchet.

True.... works great.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Multiplied by the 5 bikes I have, that's about 600 clams to drop on oil filters, that I have to clean.

I've been running HIFLOWFILTRO's on all my bikes for about the last ten years. They're TUV approved.

TUV, is the German testing agency for all things automotive. Basically, if you want to run any aftermarket part in Germany, it has to be TUV approved. Getting a TUV approval, is notoriously difficult. You have to jump through some major hoops. The K&N filters for bikes, are actually made by HIFLOW.

As far as the math goes, what's your time worth? I'd have to guess you're looking at an hour or so, to get the stainless filter 100% clean?

For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC

I'm kinda with you on this... I'm lazy and would probably "forget" to clean the damn thing...

I fully understand the arguments presented here but;

1. I change my oil frequently and doubt that it gets dirty enough to cause the problems presented.

2. I'm not convinced that a few small pieces of paper are a serious threat to my engine.

3. Millions of engines run billions of miles on "paper filters" without problems. This sounds like a lot of hype and fear tactics to sell $100+ filters.

4. One of my biggest fears is that the aluminum threads decide to get stuck on the steel mount...ever have a stuck oil filter? I wonder if it is harder to remove with the engine hot.

[derf]

Originally Posted by TIGGER

I'm kinda with you on this... I'm lazy and would probably "forget" to clean the damn thing...

I fully understand the arguments presented here but;

1. I change my oil frequently and doubt that it gets dirty enough to cause the problems presented.

2. I'm not convinced that a few small pieces of paper are a serious threat to my engine.

3. Millions of engines run billions of miles on "paper filters" without problems. This sounds like a lot of hype and fear tactics to sell $100+ filters.

4. One of my biggest fears is that the aluminum threads decide to get stuck on the steel mount...ever have a stuck oil filter? I wonder if it is harder to remove with the engine hot.

I totally agree with you on this post.

3. if its good enough for the masses then its good enough for me, paper filters have done me fine up to this point, not gonna change now.

4. If I ever have a regular oil filter that is too stuck to remove with a filter wrench, I just stab it with a screw driver and twist off like that.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by derf

I totally agree with you on this post.

3. if its good enough for the masses then its good enough for me, paper filters have done me fine up to this point, not gonna change now.

4. If I ever have a regular oil filter that is too stuck to remove with a filter wrench, I just stab it with a screw driver and twist off like that.

Exactly my point, what do you do with this $100 aluminum filter?