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Old 02-14-2010, 07:19 PM   #1
askmrjesus
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Originally Posted by Tmall View Post
If it takes you any more than 5-10 minutes to clean a filter, you're doing it wrong. If you use solvents you should be able to dunk and swish. If you use compressed air, wrap it in a rag and blow the air through.. We do it all the time at work.
I'm too anal about my bikes, to do anything in 5-10 minutes.

A question about solvents; What are you using, and what effect does its ingredients have on your oil?

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Originally Posted by Tmall View Post
How long does it take you to drive to the store and back and wait at the parts counter? That's not to say you couldn't just buy a case of oil filters..
My filter supply is usually about 6 deep, per bike. It's a 90 minute round trip to "town", so I hoard bike supplies.

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Old 02-15-2010, 04:17 PM   #2
Tmall
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Originally Posted by askmrjesus View Post
I'm too anal about my bikes, to do anything in 5-10 minutes.

A question about solvents; What are you using, and what effect does its ingredients have on your oil?



My filter supply is usually about 6 deep, per bike. It's a 90 minute round trip to "town", so I hoard bike supplies.

JC
We use Jizer quite often. It's a kerosene based water soluble degreaser. I fill a bucket with it and another with water. I dunk our cruise diesel particulate filters in it, swish em around and toss them in the water. They're spotless in seconds. They get another swish in the water, dried off with compressed air and then reassembled.

Most oil has fuel in it anyway. There's a really easy way to test for it. We use a Kittiwake machine (http://www.kittiwake.com/). But, when I started the job we used to use a ball bearing test. You fill a test tube with old oil, and one with new oil. You drop a ball bearing in and time it. If the old oil allows the bearing to fall faster, it has fuel contamination, any slower and it's carbon/solids build up. The only problem was, what if it's contaminated from both? Which is why we use the new system.
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #3
Gas Man
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For my applications, an $8.00, 10 micron filter that I don't have to fuck with, beats a $125.00, 30 micron filter hands down.

JC
The problem here is that the paper filter doesn't filter at 10 microns for very long. Then it filters even higher than the ss filters. Where as the SS 35 micron is absolute.

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Originally Posted by goof2 View Post
It comes with one of those filter wrench attachment things that fit over the top of the filter and connects to a ratchet.
True.... works great.
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