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#1 | |
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Elitist
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay Area
Moto: Gix 750
Posts: 11,351
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Quote:
![]() Never mind that your suspension affects you no matter how fast or slow you're going....... |
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#2 | |
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Moto GP Star
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 14,556
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Quote:
I replace the springs to match my weight and adjust the pre-load, etc and leave it alone after that. I'm not going to fiddle with my suspension every time I ride to match what road I'm going on so why mess with a race suspension for the street? Just an opinion...
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#3 |
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The Man
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: CrabTown USA
Moto: 00 Bimota DB4
Posts: 823
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And for most folks, that's OK, too.
A properly sprung and set up bike is about 90% as good as it gets.... The only folks who really NEED that other 10% are the guys who ride at 99%... the ones who find their forks chattering, or rear tire tearing or hopping on the rough stuff, or pushing the front end. Or who load there bikes heavy for long distances. Or who want a softer, more compliant ride with control. Or , who've set their bike up properly and find it still is starting tankslappers on bumpy exits. Or who are lighter than the theoretical "average" and get tired of harsh response even with a custom spring on those 500 miles backroad days........ Ps: lighter riders really do get the worst of it; most jap bikes are overdamped on compression, and a lot of harshness gets transmitted to lighter riders.
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http://www.decreasingradius.net/ |
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#4 | |
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Moto GP Star
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 14,556
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#5 | |
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The Man
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: CrabTown USA
Moto: 00 Bimota DB4
Posts: 823
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Quote:
What you said was "I replace the springs to match my weight and adjust the pre-load, etc and leave it alone after that." That's fine. For you. And your bike. For where you ride. Sportbikes aren't the only bikes in the world... About half of the suspension work we do is on touring, SM and standards with people who have specific issues. Unless someone has deep pockets and a need for bling, I try to talk folks into Racetech, Elka or Penske (1/2 the price of Ohlins) for the rear and Racetech g2-r ($179) and a correct spring set for the front. That and a sag set and dialing in comp and rebound front and rear will do it for most. The other half of the work we do is split pretty evenly between WERA and AMA guys doing serious racing, and everyday riders who split their riding between street and track and are finding the limits of what they have in a stock set-up during their trackdays. Not everybody has more than one bike, and for some, they "need" the versatility that a top-notch set-up brings to the table. That set-up might be a $2600 Ohlins fork, or it might be a new cartridge from one of the other folks (about 1/2 the price). Note that the title of this thread was "Bling vs Bang". And yes, sarcasm aside, I've heard of a "steering damper", and a steering damper fixes the symptom, not the problem...it's what you go to after all else fails. If you've never been to a high-speed track that's had the lines on the exits to the turns rippled from high HP (1000+) slick-shod race cars the week before, you wouldn't appreciate the need to use equipment that has separate high and low speed damping adjustments and the absolute difference that a REALLY well set up system can make. I realize that most folks think that performance increases should be "formulaic"; i.e. the bike does THIS, so change THAT...at the limits of the envelope it seldom is so, ergo my initial post...
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http://www.decreasingradius.net/ Last edited by OTB; 09-15-2010 at 09:19 AM.. |
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