1125 Valve check

[Cutty72]

Next, start the bike, disconnect the fuel pump while running to drain the fuel rail. After it dies, crank it again for a couple seconds to be sure.



After you are done cranking the bike, put rags in the intake to prevent anything from being dropped in them.
Then, disconnect the fuel rail, be sure to plug/cap the lines so no shit gets in them.



Disconnect the throttle cables.



Disconnect all the other wiring. Horn wires, O2 sensors, speed sensor, main ECM cable, clutch cable, rear brake line...

By this point, my assistants were getting rather bored...



Next, remove the muffler and set aside. Then position a floor jack under the engine to support it.



Also at this time, position whatever it is you are going to support the front end/frame with.

Then, remove the 7 bolts connecting the frame/tank to the engine (yes, just 7) 1. Shock to swingarm 2 & 3 front K brackets to front of engine (radiators must be loose to get to them) 4 & 5 Rear area of frame/tank 6 & 7 Further up, on the right side there is a pinch bolt that must be loosened first.
Once all the bolts are removed, start lifting the frame SLOWLY to ensure that all the wiring has been disconnected properly.

[Cutty72]

VIOLA, you now have 2 half bikes!





While I had it apart, I applied heat tape to the inside of the frame/tank. Not sure if it will help, but it can't hurt anything.





Remove the stator puck and plug, this is how you will rotate the engine.



Then, remove the heads and start the valve check/adjustment per the manual.



Loosen the plugs, but leave them in place as this will prevent you from accidentally dropping anything into the engine.
I had good luck using a magnet tool to remove and replace the shims. Wipe them off with a rag first to remove the oil "seal" that holds them in place and they come right out. Measure with a micrometer or a caliper to get proper size of the old, and replace with the new using the formula in manual.
All of mine were on the edge of in spec tight, or out of spec tight.
Now they are all in spec mid to loose.

[Cutty72]

And here are the tools I used to complete the job.



Feeler gauge
spark plug wrench/socket
Caliper
Rubber mallet
small flat tip screwdriver
large flat tip screwdriver
T30 driver
T40 driver
4mm allen
5mm allen
6mm allen
8mm allen
4mm allen L shape
snap ring pliers
side cutter
8mm wrench
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
14mm wrench
magnet tool
needle nose pliers
channel lock pliers
ratchet w/ extension
8mm socket
17mm socket
mity vac (or your favorite way to bleed brakes/clutch)
turkey baster
Dot 4 brake fluid
Shim kit (10mm o.d.)
Coolant (optional)
rags
Oil and filter

And the most important



The manual.

[Cutty72]

Putting it back together is just a reverse of the disassembly.
It actually went back together very easily. All the wires are quick connect so they can't be hooked up incorrectly, so as long as you don't miss a connection, you should be good to go.

Before I put all the plastics back on I also did a coolant flush with Engine Ice, flushed both brakes and clutch, and a complete oil change, to include pulling the sump plate since the exhaust was off anyway. Didn't need to, as it was clean, but now I know!

Sorry for not having any reassembly pics, I ended up doing that a little at a time while I had time in the evenings. I hate doing it that way for fear I may miss something, but I had no extra parts, and everything seems to run smoothly.

If you have any questions about the procedure, feel free to ask. It was not nearly as difficult as I expected, mostly just time consuming.